HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES

HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES

This issue has been the bane of my life, as I slowly…ok not so slowly approach the big 4-0 I must have tried at least that number of products under my eyes, if this is something that bothers you too then here’s HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES.

I have quite bad under eye hollows which cause a dark appearance and make you look tired (hereditary in my case, cheers mum)…so my quest for a bright, concealed eye area began.

Everything I tried, after a few hours made me look about 10 years older….WHAT! So my research continued.

Two main tips that seem to appear when researching this problem are

1 Powder under your eye to set the products in place.

2 Don’t use a thick, dry concealer under the eye, use something more creamy.

OK, so I tried those two tips.

Powdering made my under eye’s look dry, more lined and….well powdery and creamier concealers seemed to slide around and find even more little tiny lines to seep into than before.

I tried using eye creams, high end concealers, drugstore concealers, brightening powders, translucent powders…you name it I tried it and whilst some were definitely better than others non seemed to rid me of the problem.

So HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES….well…….you can’t!

No matter what age you are your skin will move with expression and lines will form, on younger people they disappear straight away, as you get older they never go.

Hydrating the eye area is definitely key, helping to reduce fine lines caused by dryness and dehydration will help dramatically, soft supple skin is always going to look better.

However, I find heavier creams under makeup don’t sit well on my skin, so I use a hydrating cream or even an eye oil at night and a hydrating eye gel in the day before makeup.

HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES

 

Obviously keeping your body hydrated, getting enough sleep and reducing stress will all help your under eyes to be less dark.

The two main things that will help prevent creasing are

How much product you use

The less product you use on the skin, especially around the eyes, the better. So to make sure you can still cover everything you need to, the product needs to be quite opaque.

Pressing the concealer into the skin will provide more coverage than wiping or buffing onto the skin.

Anything too light in texture will not cover the darkness resorting in needing to reapply more product.

Make sure your concealer is peachy toned, this will help counteract any blue tones under the eye.

HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES

Where you put it

If you watch YouTube tutorials you will see an array of white under eye upside down triangles, which is fine for 20 year old’s, as you get older you can’t get away with that amount of product under the whole eye.

As you can see from one of my client’s before and after pictures below, the darkness will always be mainly in the inner eye whilst any lines will appear on the outer eye, all we are trying to conceal is darkness so no product is needed on the outer eye, this is the part that as you talk, smile etc will move and so will any product that is on there.

HOW TO STOP CONCEALER CREASING UNDER THE EYES

As you are applying your concealer smile in the mirror, where your smile lines appear avoid placing any product.

So to recap

  • Keep your under eye skin hydrated
  • Drink water
  • Get your 8 hours of sleep
  • Use a product opaque enough to conceal what you need to. make sure its peachy toned
  • Don’t apply too much product
  • Smile when you apply your concealer and don’t apply on your smile lines

My favourite eye products are

Gels for day/under makeup

Chanel Hydra beauty micro gel yeux

Elemis Pro collagen eye treatment

Creams for night

Kiehls creamy eye treatment with avocado 

Charlotte Tilbury magic eye rescue

Bobbi brown hydrating eye cream

Concealers

Nars radiant creamy concealer

Dior Diorskin Star concealer

What are your favourite eye products? Comment below

lucie makeup artist

 

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GET THE LOOK MATTE SMOKEY EYE

This is another look that I get asked to recreate a lot and also receive a lot of questions about which products I have used, so here’s how to GET THE LOOK MATTE SMOKEY EYE.

GET THE LOOK MATTE SMOKEY EYE

This was a look for a bridesmaid last year, this lady was used to wearing an evening makeup and wanted to feel glammed up but suitable for a bridesmaid role and this look worked perfectly. Depth and drama around the eyes yet soft for wedding.

GET THE LOOK MATTE SMOKEY EYE

Prep

The clients skin was prepped with Garnier micellar water and a light la roche posay moisturiser.

Eyes

MAC paint pot was used as a base over the eye area and brows were accentuated using Anastasia brow powder, clear brow gel and defined with Nars concealer.

MAC blanc type was used on the lid with cork, soft brown, espresso and carbon blended to achieve a gorgeous smoke. Feline pencil was used on the water line and smoked out using carbon.

Eldora M102 lashes were used to add that touch of glam and Illamasqua liner finished off the look.

Skin

Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow was applied to the skin to prime and a little pore filler added where necessary.

Estee Lauder Doublewear was buffed in to the skin and MAC Pro longwear concealer applied under the eyes.

Mineralize skin finish by MAC was used to give definition and shape to the face, whilst peaches added a pop of colour and soft and gentle for a touch of highlight.

Lips

MAC Spice lip liner and velvet teddy were applied to the lips for a soft nude.

GET THE LOOK MATTE SMOKEY EYE

For any further questions please comment below

Is this a look you would recreate?

lucie makeup artist

For a Natural golden glow check out GET THE LOOK

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HOW TO GET AMAZING, FULLER BROWS

HOW TO GET AMAZING, FULLER BROWS

One of the things most commented on after I have done a clients makeup is their eyebrows. Either “I have eyebrows!” or “I wish I could get my eyebrows to look like this ” and also messages afterwards about what products I used to achieve the results. So here’s HOW TO GET AMAZING, FULLER BROWS.

 

Firstly, anyone over the age of 30 will have probably plucked their eyebrows within an inch of their life.

Who knew eyebrows would be a ‘thing’?

If this is you and you are desperately trying to grow them back here are some tips.

When your brow hairs start to grow back they won’t grow back where you want them, there will be gaps and random hairs here, there and everywhere.

So my best tip and how I got to thicken my shape back up is firstly to master drawing them on/filling them in with product, once you have mastered that and are happy with the size and shape you can then pluck the hairs outside of that shape.

Without product on your brows the fuller shape is unclear and you may have a random hair or two that you would be tempted to pluck out, when in actual fact those hairs are a vital part in your new quest for fuller brows.

My brows are a lot fuller than in the late 90’s and lots of people say I have nice brows but I fill them in EVERYDAY and wouldn’t leave the house without doing so (see pic below)

Measuring your brows

Hold a pencil or makeup brush at the side of your nostril going straight up past the inner corner of your eye this should be where your brow starts.

Keep the end of the pencil/brush next to your nostril and pivot the top to the outside of your eye, this is where your brow should end.

If your natural brows are too short at either or both ends then make sure you extend them when filling them in and only pluck outside the filled in shape.

Holding the pencil once again at the side of your nostril and looking straight ahead into a mirror move the top part of the pencil so it’s at the outside of the coloured part of your eye, this is where the highest part of your arch should be.

HOW TO GET AMAZING, FULLER BROWS

Filling in your brows

Pencils, pomades, gels, shadows, waxes where do you start?

My personal favourite for both myself and my clients is Anastasia Beverley Hills Brow powder duo. Personally I have the shade medium brown (pic right) which has two shades a lighter and darker, both very flattering and means you can get a realistic effect.

Professionally I have the pro palette (pic left) which contains the whole shade range, I find the range extremely universal and love the palette for mixing different shades and depths.

For my own eyebrows I use the Anastasia brush that came in a starter kit however on clients I use a M.A.C 266 angled brush, on clients I also set brows in place with a clear brow gel.

Carving your brows

This is a step that some of you may do daily and some of you have probably never heard of.

This is where concealer is used to sharpen the line of the brows to give a very crisp line and further define the shape. This also corrects any powder that has blurred/smudged outside of the desired shape.

Any concealer will do, my favourites are MAC pro longwear and Nars radiant creamy concealer. You do need one that is good coverage and that sets to a matte finish. Usually a shade that is a few shades lighter than your foundation is used to give a highlighted lifted look.

On the more dramatic looks this is created using the lightest shade to give a strong highlight effect and allow coloured eyeshadows to be super intense.

Carving the brows is a step I do in professional makeup every time but not something I do on myself daily (purely out of time restraints/laziness), if I was wearing a full makeup and going out I would take a little more time to do this as it does make quite a difference.

Is this something you will try?

Leave me your comments below

lucie makeup artist

Top pic taken by Capture the love

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GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW

GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW

After the success of the last Get the look I thought I would break down another look and show you how to GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW.

GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW

This makeup look was for a bridesmaid, she has beautiful olive, clear skin and shaped eyebrows, so my job was made so much easier.

With all my bridal looks I tend to suggest more of a “you on a really good day” look, its not about changing features and piling on products, its about enhancing what you already have and I feel this look shows that beautifully.

BEFORE

GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW

PREP

The skin was prepped with Garnier Micellar water and a light La roche posay moisturiser. Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow was applied to prime the skin and give a soft glow.

BASE

Estee Lauder Doublewear was buffed into the skin to provide a light coverage, just really to even out the skin, Nars radiant creamy concealer was used under the eye to brighten.

Mac mineralize skin finish in Dark golden and Dark deep were used to softly shape and create depth to  the face, Nars Orgasm blush added a touch colour to the cheeks and Mac Global glow added a beautiful golden glow.

EYES

Anastasia brow powder was used to slightly enhance the natural brow and clear brow gel kept them neat and in place.

The eyes were primed with MAC paint pot in soft ochre and Urban decay space cowboy was used across the lid for a subtle shimmer. The outer eye and crease were warmed softly with MAC wedge and cork.

MAC carbon was used along the top and lower lash line to produce a soft smoke, Eldora M109 lashes were added to open the eyes and add a touch of glam and blended in using Illamasqua gel liner.

MAC soft and gentle was used in the inner eye to give a bright eyed look.

LIPS

MAC lip liner in Soar was used to line the lips Bobbi brown pale mauve was added to give a lovely colour and sheen to the lips.

FINISHED LOOK

GET THE LOOK CREATE A NATURAL GOLDEN GLOW

And just to show that there’s no fancy filters and photoshop here’s a close up video of the makeup straight from my phone, excuse the very warm lighting too.

What do you think of this look? What other looks would you like to see?

lucie makeup artist

 

 

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I HAVE FINALLY FOUND MY PERFECT LIPSTICK

Lipstick for myself is something I often struggle with so I can’t tell you how happy I am that I have finally found my perfect lipstick, getting the shade, coverage, tones and consistency right is often difficult.

My daytime look is very natural and my evening look is all about the eyes, I don’t feel comfortable with too much colour on my lips, so for me it’s about looking like my lips on a good day.

Years ago I would only wear a gloss but then after not wearing gloss for a while and trying to go back to it I actually don’t like it, it feels sticky, my hair gets stuck to it and it just doesn’t last.

My lips however are quite dry and I don’t like the feeling of a matte lipstick on my lips at all. So I have always opted for more moisturizing textures and do actually like the YSL volupte shine and have tried a few shades.

My lips naturally have quite a bit of colour so I find if I opt for nudes I end up with that annoying line in your inner lip which is a bit “concealer lips”.

So the hunt was on, but if I’m honest I’d kind of given up and was just wearing cheap and cheerful tinted carmex but being the packaging snob that I am, I wanted something a little nicer to reapply in public.

I know, I know I don’t want much do I?

Anyway one day as I was at the Chanel stand repurchasing my eye gel there was a little wait so I started looking at the lip colours and one seemed a “me” colour so I thought I would give it a try, little did I know how perfect is was going to be for me.

I HAVE FINALLY FOUND MY PERFECT LIPSTICK

So please welcome the Rouge Coco Ultra hydrating lip colour in the shade 434 Mademoiselle, this retails for £28 and for some that might be far too much to pay for a lipstick but if I think of the amount I have spent trying to find the right one, I think its a bargain.

I HAVE FINALLY FOUND MY PERFECT LIPSTICK

 

I’m a sucker for a brand name but the product does have to deliver and it does. It is the perfect shade for my lips not too brown, not too pink, with a slight mauve tone, just like my natural lips. It covers any unevenness in my lips but still offers a comfortable hydrating sheen with no stickiness. It’s not really long lasting but that’s not really on my list of needs as its so close to my lip colour I don’t really notice the fade off and if need be I just reapply.

What’s your favourite lipstick?

lucie makeup artist

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